Long Distance Scrambling in Corsica (Week 1)

By Tim Cooper

Most of you will have heard of Corsica’s long distance trek the GR20 being the toughest in Europe at about 180km long and with over 10,000m of accent and decent to be covered in about two weeks, but it is anything but a walk in the park.

Thinks start off OK in Calenzana as you climb out of the coastal plain with a bit of nice path and sunshine on our backs but that did not last long as he clouds soon rolled in obscuring the fine views and then the rain despite being promised that it never rained in Corsica at this time of year. On with the waterproofs well waterproof as the trousers were back in the UK to save weight and a recommendation that skin is waterproof anyway. Six hours after leaving Calenzana and after negotiating a few short rocky sections with chains, we arrived at the refuge and located our accommodation and the weather eventually improved to give a fine evening.

Corsican sunshine

Day 2 was an improvement in terms of the weather and a deterioration in the conditions under foot most of which was steep and rocky. Generally, the way finding was good with red and white painted markers every 10 – 20m but as the route twists and turns you need to keep a good eye out. We missed one turn, descended a gully on a reasonable path, and had to retrace our steps. This misfortune rewarded us with a glimpse of three Muflon, the only ones we saw. The path is rarely flat with constant up and down, twists and turns and after 7 hours, we reach the next refuge, only to be told there were no shower (cold only) so it was off to the river for a wash, which was surprisingly enjoyable.

Our accommodation for the majority of our overnights, lovely pre pitched tents

Day 3 was another good weather day and after crossing a good suspension bridge the head on up the Spasimata slabs with several sets of chains helping on our way we arrived at lac de la Muvrella. Just before reaching the lake we had our first spot of trouble as I realised I had left my water bladder on the table in the refuge whilst filling Liz’s flask with hot water, but there was no way a was going back as we were 2 hours out. We then encountered our first snow up to Bocca Di Stagnu. We had been warned of snow on the route for tomorrow so this was a bit of a surprise. Once over the snow a long rocky descent awaited and the first of our three hotel stops.

The first of the snow

The company we booked the accommodation through had advised us to skip this stage as there was a lot of snow on the route but we decided to give it a go like most people. I purchase a walking pole the night before for a little security on the snow but I’m not sure that it was needed, better safe the sorry. The started with a gentle, by GR20 standards, walk up a wooded valley but once we crossed the bridge, we were back into the steep stuff and a bit of traffic, this soon passed and we climbed on over a loose path not quite scree but almost. At the start of the snow slope, we caught up lots of the early starters deliberating whether they needed crampons. We tended to start about 8am but some were up and away at first light. As we did not have crampons, we continued and the conditions were OK and thus we reached the highest point of the GR20. From here, we had an abortive attempt on Mount Cinto, Corsica’s highest point, but with difficult way finding and steep snow banks, we did not make it. We traversed a ridge that was wet and windy and descended via more snow slopes and more down scrambling to the bergerie (shepherd’s cottage) with hot showers and flushing toilets. We believed the snow made today’s walk easier than the loose rubble we would have had to negotiate without it.

Monte Cinto, the elusive summit

After a very sweaty night in our little tent we set off along a wooded path down the valley that eventually turned up hill again and the inevitable scrambling. On reaching the col we turned right and circumnavigated the valley head, past a refuge we ignored all though it looked inviting. Then a steep descent into the valley where it stated to rain, quiet heavy at times, but luckily we had it to the second hotel before we got to wet.

The valley head

Day 6 started wet and stayed wet almost to the end. The only good thing was that the paths where reasonable. As we neared the refuge we met two Australian women how were trying to find a path. They nearly convinced us that we had gone wrong telling us we were not on the GR20 and after several minutes of almost panic we noticed a red and white flash in the distance and where saved. We left them to their wanderings.

The Refuge de Manganu

Today was the second section we were advised to miss because of the snow, as this is the second highest point on the route, but we set off regardless as people traveling north had completed the traverse so we felt confident of success. It was a nice bright day if not a little chilly. The snow was passable with care (the walking pole got its second and last outing, but it enjoyed the ride all the way to Conca) but it was starting to get soft and where people had slipped it was becoming a bit tricky. Great views today with some high lakes adding to the impressive scenery from our vantage point with most of the day spent above 2000m. The cloud stayed away until the last decent to probable the worst refuge, although it was a close run thing with Refuge d’Usciolu at the end of day 11. Today was the second near disaster as I half dropped my camera with the result that one half of the lens shutter was no longer closing and it was taking random photos. Luckily the camera recovered and continued to work but will need replacing.

Lac de Mélo