The Peak District 13th–15th April 2018

By Paul Nicholls

With a keen eye on the weather forecast for the weekend 4 of us (Gill, myself, Tim and Tris) set off for Hardhurst Farm for our first weekend under canvas this year. Gill and I then spent 2 hours on the A3 and M25 before we even got rid of that feeling that we were ‘still near home’. Still, we arrived at the site just in time to pitch tents in the light (just) and get to the pub with ten minutes to spare to order dinner. Tim and Tris sauntered in having had a later but less congested drive, there were beers waiting for them!

So, with the arrival of Anthony, Martin and Tara at the ‘crack of sparrows’ we set off for Stanage to get some grit ticked off. Tim and Tris were off to the Popular end whilst the rest of us planned to get in some easy leads on simpler routes to get ourselves in to the swing of it. As we geared up to climb Tim appeared from further down the crag, he’d slipped off Central Trinity (VS 4c) and taken a hard knock to his shoulder which put him out of action.

Tris soloed one route but clearly wanted to get cracking with some Severes, VS and perhaps more challenging routes, so in a rush of blood to the head I agreed and he and I set off to the Popular end. Whilst the others gemmed up on their skills and knocked out a whole load of shorter routes Tris and I got stuck in to Dover Wall and, with Tris on lead, climbed the imaginatively name Dover Wall Route 1 (Severe 4a). It was a bit of a slog straight up a crack with a slightly tricky finish. At this point, Pete (Neden) joined us and we climbed the much more enjoyable Dover Wall Route 4 (VS 4b) and Falaises de Douvre (VS 4c).

I made my excuses as Pete was slowed by the damp patch on Dovers Wall Route 2 (HVS 5a) and headed back to see how the others were getting on, to find Gill putting up a new route of her own! Swiftly named ‘F****** Choss’ by Anthony as he attempted the tricky little traverse Gill had put in to join a couple of routes, the rest of us just cringed at the potential swing.

Pete lead a couple of more HVS and Tris, trying to keep himself from getting over excited at being outside on rock, lead couple of VS and the classic Paradise Wall (HS 4b) with Pete also leading Paradise Arête (VS 4c). Overall, Tris was chuffed to get in at least 10 routes on the grit today.

Judging by the grit rash on everyone’s hands a good day’s climbing had been had by all (save for Tim who was still feeling a bit sore. Mind you, he did manage to walk back to Hardhurst Farm from Stanage Edge!)

Dinner at the Traveller’s Rest that evening was a full-on affair and really good fun and a few of us took on some ‘HVS desserts’ laden with custard (but let’s not get in to another ‘battle of the cakes’).

The weather forecast improved a bit on Sunday morning and the rain was set to hold off until at least midday. Gill, Tris, Tim and I set off to Froggatt leaving Ant, Tara and Martin taking care of cooked breakfasts. On their way to join us they felt the need to stop off at Hathersage to check out the gear shops. Meanwhile, Tris lead up Sunset Crack (HS 4b) and I seconded followed by Gill. A really good route with 3 or 4 big balancy moves joined with a little bit of repositioning. As we got back to the foot of the crag and geared up for the next route Ant, Tara and Martin arrived – but they brought the rain with them. The weather heralded the end to our climbing for the weekend but it had been a really enjoyable couple of days and, for me at least, a good start to this year’s climbing on rock.