Hot Rock – April 2016 El Chorro – Day 3 – Ian Dixon
Day 3 (Monday)
Rain forecast again so plans with that in mind sticking in the same groups as the previous day helped the morning faff, the “go hard” team headed to Desplomilandia a steep and overhanging crag supposedly good if it rains but where apart from a couple of token 5s and 6as the routes seem to start at 6b and above.
The other group of sensible steady climbers head back to Valle de Abdalajis well I think that was what they said but if I have the day right then ended up on sightseeing and shopping trip to La Ronda.
We opted for Sector Castrojo at the bottom end of Frontales through El Chorro and on tracks into the forrest, we took a wrong turn and ended up turning around before finding the right spot. KJ and I got through Slipped In (5), Vas pisando huevos (5), and But One (5) all fine while Tim and Gill knocked off their own routes.
Under grey skies KJ started up Un monton de chatarra (6a), the route starts steadily enough up a rib to the left of a gully and then splits the right bolt line heading through an overhang at 6b+ , there was to say some confusion on route finding and as the rain started KJ headed left and then up thin moves to the belay chain. We found out later in the week when Tim repeated the route KJ headed too far left and effectively did the bottom of Un monton de chatarra and the top bit of Big Fun (6a+).
Still a 6a in the wet as we kept reminding KJ for the rest of the week for motivation.
The rain came in heavy so we retreated wet to the car and headed to the supermarket again to shop. By the time we had got back in the afternoon and had a late lunch the rain had cleared and it looked dry enough to venture out.
Back to Valle de Abdalajis this time to the Sector Central first to do Oso yogui (5) before moving on to do the 3* Cantolandia (6a), only slight problem the route being 35m and the rope only 60. So KJ belayed up a ramp at the base of the wide starting crack by the first bolt and I led from there clipping the second bolt. Good moves up lead to a foot traverse outright with jugs and then on to the meat of the climb, good hand holds the odd smear and pleasant climbing get you up to the crux near the top. A slanting crack that looks better than it is for the left hand, nothing much for the right, a smear for the left foot, and then a high right foot and pull to get the good hold and it’s up to easier ground ..it took a while to commit. Plenty of rope left after being lowered down.
KJ repeated getting to the crux but let’s face it I am tall so it’s easier! So KJ took his time in the failing light before committing to the move and getting to the top.
Back at the Villa Sally had a night off cooking as sausage stew was cooked up by the “men folk” accompanied by more wine and beer and a massive chocolate roll.