Hot Rock – April 2016 El Chorro – Day 1 – Ian Dixon
Day 1 (Saturday)
Flights booked, deposits paid, gear sorted and bags packed everything ready as the alarm beeped at 3:30 am on Saturday Morning. A quick shower, coffee and check of the passport and boarding pass ( for the 5th time) and bags in the car just as KJ arrived at 4 am to share a lift to Gatwick for the British Airways flight to Malaga.
KJ and I were the advance party opting for the earlier BA flight, the rest of the main group of Tim, Neville, Dave, Sally, Roland, Rich, Tristan, Lindsey, Andy, Cyra and Rob going for the later EasyJet flight, and a finally the long weekenders Gill, Pete and Sami on a later afternoon flight.
It wasn’t long before KJ and I were walking out of Malaga airport arrivals looking for Malaga Car the plan to get the car, one of three, we had hired. Our first navigational challenge, with few details to hand find Malaga Car!. They didn’t have a desk in the rental cars so back up to the exit for arrivals, perhaps they were stood outside with a sign, again no luck. Aimless walking around before asking at information and confirmation they should be waiting with a board by the exit, so we tried again. The rather conspicuous young girl in bright orange had magically appeared from somewhere.
Renault Megane in hand we waiting in the carpark of the rental place soaking up the sun and petrol fumes from the dual carriage way for the rest to arrive which they did in short order.
Our car had 5 and amazingly everyone and their bags managed to get in though a little squashed. While the others sorted their hire cars we headed off for the hour drive up to El Chorro, off the “motorway” we went down the twisting road and soon the walls of the famous gorge and the waters lower reservoir were on our left and we had our first views of the towering face of Frontales which dominates the village of El Chorro and is the main climbing area.
After the drive down we were now twisting our way up the narrow potholed road dodging goats and chickens following the directions to our accommodation for the week at Finca Rocabella…definitely not a road for those that suffer from vertigo or car sickness!
At Finca Rocabella we settled into the bar with a cold beer to wait for the others to arrive, and waited, and waited. The other two cars less burdened with just 4 people per car had spotted a Lidl on the way and dived in to stock up on food, beer and wine.
We had three villas, and surprisingly for the GMC with little faff the 13 of us managed to sort of rooms and beds and villas. As it was sunny, warm and with plenty of time the two two cars who had got food headed to Valle de Abdalajis just 10 minutes down the road.
Whilst we on the other hand headed to Alora with directions to find the supermarket, and find it we did despite its best stealth efforts to hide from anyone not local. We made it back with several bottles of 2 Euro wine, and some food with plenty of time to follow the others and get a bit of climbing in.
Valle de Abdalajis is a a slabby / vertical crag broken by diagonal cracks with a good selection of lower grade 4, 5 and 5+ climbs perfect for a warm up introduction to El Chorro climbing. We found the others busy in Sector Diagonal hard at work. Given the odd number Tim, KJ and I were climbing as a three.
First up was Un pobre infeliz (4) a wall with lots of breaks, should have been simple enough easy warm up, if it was graded anything like craggy it would be a ladder. The first bolts passed easily happy romping up on the warm rock in the sun, a move left, clip, up then would be at the belay chain.
Hang on a minute that’s a bit tricky, “aren’t 4s supposed to have foot holds and jugs?” complain loudly, refocus and thin move left, up and done. “My Arse is that a 4”. Hmmm moment of doubt as wonder if the El Chorro grading is stiff or if the route is a bit of a sandbag given the google translation is “The Poor Wretch”
Next up was Poderio Vertical (5???) a short crack easy climbing and no problems. It felt easier than the 4 we had just done, a relief as perhaps the grading is OK after all.
The others were busy on 30 – 35m 6a, 6a+’s infusing about good moves, with nice rests to follow.
Time was getting on the sun was heading to the horizon people were milling around chatting having done enough for the first day so I took advantage of Lindsey to belay me on La bavaresa (5+).. It is easy to find as the name is painted in big letters on the bottom. The route is short and follows a left treading crack, the bottom section went fine, a minor crux a few interesting moves on polish and a bit strenuous, at the top missed the crux move got tired so took a rest. A handy tip shouted by Neville about a good hold buried in the crack enabling a swing from the right of the crack to the left and then into a layback up, to good holds sorted it. A few grunts from the strain and it was done.
Light fading everyone headed back to the villas past the locals sat outside on their benches bonfire to keep them warm handily just burning away on the of the road melting the tarmac and making negotiating the hairpin in Abdalajis village slightly interesting!
Gill, Sami and Pete had arrived, our Villas resident Chef Sally (Lets not mention traditional stereo types !) cooked up a massive pesto chorizo pasta enough to feed everyone with second and third helpings for some (I was hungry !) , 2 Euro wine went down well, and guide books and discussions about plans for the next day were the order of business.