Scottish Trip – Cornices in Camouflage!

By Claire Williams

My objective for the trip was to fine tune winter navigation. Much time was had pacing on a bearing in a white-out, so I was very happy! I achieved four quality winter days for the winter log book. A big thank you to Colin for being my walking partner this week. Most insightful experience from an instructional perspective.

We built snow bollard belays and I tried out self arrests (four ways) whilst the Arctic Hare looked on from afar, with views of Ben Nevis in the background.

The cornices last week were huge and extremely camouflaged in a white out, almost deceiving. Pacing accuracy was essential so to avoid walking off the edge. I always told my partner to hang back just in case I disappeared. Similarly, pointing out less than obvious cornice edges is essential.

I concluded my winter pacing was 15 to 20 MORE than summer (60 double paces) depending on the snow depth and the level of rockiness, it varied between 75 and 80 double paces. This difference was first picked up on my WML training but I really put to the test and we’re both still alive! Regarding pacing, I noted on the especially hard snow and going down hill it was very nearly the same as summer pacing and that wearing crampons made no difference for me. Pacing was the main skill used, and timings were not used for accuracy, but just to give an idea or to confirm. To double check destination I used the altimeter and I was 1m out (or the machine was wrong?!).

The snow was dangerous. The clinometer on the Mammut safety app (free) helped with accuracy to recognise a 37 degree slope (max avalanche risk slope) and is worth a look (if safe). Reading the blurb on the avalanche forecasts was as or more useful as the picture pizza itself.

The biggest leader decision I made was on the day we turned back early from a walk in as we were on sloppy, slushy grass slopes which were by far the toughest and steepest ascent / descent we encountered, and more dangerous than snow. That is when summer walking experience counts more than any climbing skills so evaluation of walking skills is key. Finally we followed the nice path to reach higher ground (up to freezing level) where it was all much easier with crampons and we summitted StobBan. Confirmation that planning does depend on overall mountaineering, not specifically climbing or winter experience.

Oh and don’t forget it is essential to start the day with ONLY one base layer for a walk in. BE BOLD START COLD!

Although I couldn’t persuade my partner to navigate, he kindly let me instruct technical winter walking into his style. On Day One at moments he looked like a daddy long legs with ski poles but by Day Three he was more of a lean mean winter walking machine! He achieved much more efficient / tidier foot placements from breaking winter trail, very steep learning curve, it essentially taught him how to slice snow steps using smart new Scarpa boots with edge and place feet efficiently leaning into the slope as it got steeper. I think he now understands why Scarpas cost more than summer boots. Very useful bit of kit not just for him but for making a path for others to step into.

Equipment is key in winter. My partner was delighted he invested in flashy new winter walking poles (with external adjustable non freeze bolts) he could adjust the height for walking more safely. Now he wants a winter ruck sack in order to spend less time on delicate buckles, which with gloves on is impossible and very time consuming to open /close, and a sure way to lose friends on the hill as they start to freeze.

A hot flask, food’n’drink are essential, as are goggles/sunnies, spare gloves, torch, back up map n compass and a man size hankie!!

Remember turning around is not failure, just preparation for the next day. After all, its not like were doing the Mazeno Ridge although we all wish we were!!