The Gower (3rd to 5th July 2025)
By Mike Bayley
Three of us – Jon, Charlotte & myself – made our way to Pitton Cross campsite, selected after a ludicrously complicated process about which the least said the better, near Rhossili on the evening of 3rd July for three days of climbing on the Gower.
Friday morning dawned bright and windy and after the obligatory getting ready to go faff, we made our way to Three Cliffs Bay for climbing off the beach with the knowledge that the rising tide didn’t give much leeway. I led the first climb, Right corner 1 D* on Three Cliffs without issue before Jon led the longest route on the crag Plumb Line D*. The rising tide meant Charlotte was close to being surrounded by water whilst I kept the bags dry. We moved back a bit more for Charlotte to lead Pillar Route D* before we were driven off the beach by the rising tide. Certainly for me it was a novel experience to be climbing straight off the beach. Back at the car park, we felt we had earned our ice creams.
We relocated to Port Enyon and walked into the non-tidal Boiler Slab well above the waves. The guidebook says it is exposed to the wind and it certainly was. I led Pinnacle Crack VD*, feeling the effect of the wind on my back. Jon then led Classic VD*. Both were fine routes at the grade. The day was moving on by this point and back in Port Enyon we stopped at The Ship, initially for a drink but ended up eating there too.
Saturday started very differently with overnight rain, wind and rain coming and going for much of the day. Consequently, it was a late start before Jon & Charlotte took themselves off for a run before climbing Left Edge (Tri Cornel) D** in the afternoon. This turned into a mini epic with a long abseil descent as the route down was not obvious. As for me, I was feeling below par all day and gave the day over to bimbling, drinking tea & reading.
The forecast for Sunday was much better so we aimed for an almost alpine start to the day in order to make the most of climbing again at Three Cliffs Bay before the tide rose again. The forecast wasn’t quite right and we had to wait for some rain to blow through and the wind to do its drying thing before we could start. Charlotte led Left Corner VD* and I led Left Pillar VD*. Jon then upped the ante by leading Main Wall S 4a*and in response both Charlotte & I led Central Slab S 4a*. I was pleased with the lead not having climbed much this year and judging by the giggling from the belay, so was Charlotte.
The tide was by now well up the beach so we retreated to the café in the car park for tea & cake before the journey home. All three of us agreed that The Gower is a great venue with a mix of trad and sport climbs at a variety of grades, great scenery, less intimidating than other sea cliff areas and certainly worth a return trip when the tides are better for climbing. Oh, and don’t be put off by the over complicated campsite booking.