GMCers almost ‘touch the void’ 6th August

14 September 2023

By Paul Nicholls

In the first of our adhoc meets a small gang of us headed off for Swanage on Sunday as the weather on the South Coast looked like it was going to hold.

A splinter group of Charlotte and Teresa headed for some sport at Winspit whilst the main group of Paul K, Mark, Tara and Paul N headed for some trad at Subluminal.

We headed off early in two cars with a race to the car park at Durlston Country Park. PK and Mark arrived first, around 9.15am, and by the time Tara and I arrived at the top of the crag they had the abseil set up and ready to go.

We all descended to the ledges just above the sea in bright sunshine and opted for something easy to get ourselves warmed up and ready for some harder climbing. We all climbed High Street [D] to get us in to the swing of things with PK and Tara each leading, Mark and Paul N seconding.

Paul K nearing the top of High Street [D]

On descending the abseil again we realised that the rope had become stuck in the rocks, with the help of the crashing waves, below the level of the ledge, hmmm, something to deal with later perhaps (although everyone who came down the rope couldn’t help have a little go to free it).

The rope gets wedged in the rock by the swell.

Next up for PK and Mark was Bypass [S 4a] and for Tara and Paul N, Station Road [HS 4b]. Both very enjoyable climbs although with a little variation we seemed to bring the routes together.

Tara abseils in whilst Mark gets to grips with Gangway [S 4a]

After a spot of lunch we all took on Gangway [S 4a], another really interesting and fun route.

It’s amazing how quickly the day slips away when you’re climbing and you don’t necessarily get that many routes completed. Other than some brief spots of rain mid-morning we had sunshine all-day. As the afternoon crept on and we all started to feel a little tired after the early start the idea of some refreshments came to mind, but first we had to retrieve the rope.

Mark & Tara shooting the breeze!

PK and I descended the abseil rope once more, this time with the sole purpose of freeing it from the sea’s grip. It was clear if we descended to where it was stuck getting back would be very difficult, if not dangerous, so we decided to cut our losses, literally. With knife in hand, and all other climbers on the ledge looking on with an ‘I’ve only seen this in films’ gaze, we cut the rope! We reckon we might have lost 5-10m, but don’t worry the club will be replacing the rope and the plan is also to accompany that with a little bag of goodies to ascend the rope more easily should an emergency arise.

Paul N tops out with Paul K belaying after a little trip down to ‘cut the rope’!

So, with a shorter abseil rope, we headed back up to the cars and Durlston Castle where they served a fantastic cream tea. An unexpected end to an unexpectedly sunny day of climbing in Swanage. Now is it cream or jam first when in Dorset?