Penally Magic
By Tim Cooper
The meet was down as a trip to North Wales and with only a few of us going we opted for Pembroke instead. There was an uneventful trip down the M4 and we arrived at the hut at about 9, Tara and Paul arrived about 10 after a short roadwork diversion.
With rain spattering the windows Saturday morning we searched for a favourable weather forecast and set off for Saddle Head about 9. With only one other car in the St Govan’s car park, it looked like we would haver the cliff to ourselves. We ambled along the track looking a scattered showers out to sea and over Pembroke Dock into a strong head wind. After securing the abseil rope Tara was first down and tossed to end of the rope over the edge only for it to blow back to her feet. We all made to the bottom, picked our routes and set off upwards.
As I neared the top a group of lads were setting up another abseil. It turned out they where part of Swansea University Climbing Club on the first outdoor meet of the year. It quickly became clear we were to be outnumbered as they were a group of 45. Another rappel led to the second route of the day and then a bite to eat, Claire also arrived at this time after a trip to Haverford West to puncture repairs.
The weather had remained dry by very windy, so we decided to do one more, but as I attached to the abseil rope and looked out to the west, I changed my mind as there looked to be a squall front approaching. We packed up and set off for the car park, but the rain caught us with about 400m to go and we go a little wet. Back in the hut we lunched, drank tea and chatted. Paul, Tara and Clair went for dinner in the pub and Liz and I cooked in the hut.
Sunday was forecast to be a better day and the dawn was clear and bright. After breakfast and cleaning we set off for Penally, where we meet Claire who had been camping in the field at Bosherston. We crossed the ranges and walked east along the coastal path to Giltard Slabs.
It was such a contrast to yesterday, bright sunshine, light winds and feeling warm. Stakes allowed for quick abseil set up and we descended to a hanging belay just above the waves. The easy angled slabs made for some quick ascents that were great fun, although storm washed peddles had taken all the best gear placements.
During these ascents the beach below us was slowly revealing itself which gave access to the base of other climbs without the need for resetting the abseil. Two more routes followed of a more challenging nature but still great fun as the rock had lots of friction and was covered in cracks so you could place gear almost anywhere. As the sun dipped towards the western horizon the temperature started to drop so it was time to leave and head back up the M4 to home.
So, after an uncertain start and changeable weather forecasts it was well worth the trip for a magical day on the Penally cliffs and no sign of the Swansea Uni club, although one lad, dripping in climbing gear, did ask if we had seen a large group!!